cotton
What country and what cotton do you use to make denim? What cotton was used in American denim in the mid-20th century?
Probably because it is likely to be a large quantity and cheaply available American cotton (American cotton), the most basic aplanned cotton among the American cotton, the cotton that can be obtained in the "Eastern Memphis New Orleans Texas" region called EMOT use.
To see everything from cultivation to export, I went to Memphis, a cultivated area and a hub for cotton exports, to check everything with my own eyes.
spinning
The cotton transported by sea is stored in the warehouse of a cotton import trading company in Japan.
This is because not only the United States, but also Australia, Peru, India, Zimbabwe, China, and cotton with different personalities are imported from all over the world, and the specifications required for the same "cotton" differ depending on the final product.
To reproduce the desired thread shape, dismantle old clothes and scan the uneven shape.
Test spinning is performed multiple times before the actual spinning (yarn making) without compromising on acceptable quality.
In the olden days, the yarn thickness unevenness was created because all spinning processes were immature.
This is reproduced by modern technology.
Dyeing
Under the name of "rope dyeing," many threads are bundled and rewound into a rope.
The work that requires human eyes and hands at the end to wrap it so that it does not get tangled and does not break.
Immediately after coming out of the indigo bathtub, the pure white thread had a yellowish color, which was pulled up, touched the air and oxidized to become blue.
The color you specify controls the number of times you pass through the bathtub, the speed, height, etc., and it is thoroughly adjusted without compromise.
Woven cloth
The warp yarns that have been taken up and carried in the dyeing factory are put on the loom, which is a characteristic of denim woven cloth.
Since denim manufacturing goes through the process of rope dyeing, the manufacturing process is different from other fabrics.
It takes a lot of time to set the vertical threads on the loom, so that hundreds of threads do not get tangled up.
The weft yarn is delivered to the weaving factory without being dyed, and it is rewound on the shaft that enters the shuttle of the loom.
Whether it is warp yarn or weft yarn, it is spun into yarn and then corn-up, and then re-rolled into a shape suitable for each process many times.
By not applying tension to the thread as much as possible, we try to leave the unevenness that the original thread has and the unevenness that occurs when weaving.
Even if you say "selbidge denim", the number of revolutions of the loom varies, and the loom performed by WORKERS does not raise the number of revolutions very much.
Since the designer likes yarns that have natural unevenness and the unevenness of the yarns and the uneven texture of the fabric, it is woven with a weak tension.
pattern
Selvedge jeans pattern.
As you can see, the sides are straight because we use the fabric ears here.
When the hem is horizontal, there are only 6 lines that make up the silhouette: the front inner crotch line, the front center line, the front waist line, the back inner crotch line, the back waist line, and the rear buttocks line.
These lines alone form the silhouette.
This jeans is a Lot801 straight type/Lot802 slim tapered type.
Comparing the two, the slim rise is slightly shallower.
Also, the wading is slightly narrower, and the fit from the hips to the front crotch is emphasized. Conversely, the straight is slightly loose so that vertical wrinkles appear around the waist.
The beautiful standing figure is slim, allowing you to move, work, and use straight and sharpness in workwear-like usage.
This time the fabric is "Kibata", a non-shrink proof fabric.
The shrinkage rate is calculated, but the body direction is vertical, the yoke is horizontal, and the belt is vertical.
Therefore, it is necessary to examine and modify the silhouette by wearing it on the model after actually sewing, washing and drying.
Silhouettes are examined even for products with little shrinkage, but in the case of kibata denim, it takes more work.
After checking the fit, wrinkles, and shape, the number of correction points such as "I want to put out here, I want to cut it" and "I want to change the shape of the curve" are calculated by backcalculating the shrinkage rate and moving it on the paper pattern. Is made of.
Cutting and sewing
The characteristic of cutting selvedge jeans lies in the work of "ear alignment".
Arrange the ears on one side and arrange the dough, put the stamp on top and put the cutting machine in.
The dough is about 85-6 cm wide, but there is a difference of a few millimeters per roll.
Therefore, after cutting the half body, the ears are aligned again and the body on the other side is cut.
The characteristic of jeans sewing is that each process has its own sewing machine.
Originally, the use of dedicated sewing machines and metal fittings for each process in order to increase production efficiency is the source of puckering that produces "jeans-likeness" in a sense.
Depending on the material, a sewing machine with various shapes may be used, and the sewing machine is selected according to the material.
In modern times, there is a sewing machine that cuts a loop called "auto belt" to a specified length, folds it, and then stops it with a can, but since it uses a classic loop, it is a normal sewing machine with a can. Then one by one.
Buttons are struck with a laser pointer at a specified location.
In this way, WORKERS jeans can be made with thorough attention to detail.
It is a jeans that is packed with all the specialties of Japanese jeans.
*Some excerpts from the official website*
