[BUZZ RICKSON'S William Gibson Collection "BR12394" Type Black Pea Coat]
It's said that the prototype of the coat commonly known as the "peacoat" existed as early as the 18th century.
The name is an English translation of the Dutch word "Piijekker," from "Pii" meaning coarse wool and "jekker" meaning jacket.
Peacoat-style coats have been adopted by several military forces in European countries, but this peacoat dates from the 1910s, when it was adopted by the U.S. Navy as a coat for non-commissioned officers.
Peacoats from the 1910s are characterized by their thick, high-density Melton wool material and anchor buttons engraved with 13 stars representing the American great emblem.
These 13 stars refer to the 13 states that were in existence when the United States gained independence as a union in 1777.
The exact date when the U.S. Navy adopted the peacoat is unknown, but the dress code during World War I already listed overcoats as coats for non-commissioned officers. The large collar was designed to be raised to cover the face when working at sea, providing ample protection from strong winds.
The pockets are vertically slit, designed as hand warmer pockets to keep frozen hands warm.
From the 1930s onwards, productivity and costs were reassessed, fabrics became lighter, and the 13-star buttons were also abolished.
This peacoat is slightly shorter in length than the official issue to allow for greater mobility, and leather is used on the pocket welts for added strength.
The outer fabric is made of 36-ounce high-density Melton wool, which provides excellent cold protection.
The lining is made of smooth rayon satin, giving it a heavy feel while being light and soft to wear.
While the material and stitching are based on vintage styles, the length, width, and silhouette have been streamlined.
While the peacoat has military origins, it is now a prime example of autumn/winter outerwear, fully established for everyday use in town.
This is an attractive item that strikes an exquisite balance between military masculinity and the elegance of the fabric and tailoring.
William Gibson Collection
This is the first black MA-1 produced by Buzz Rickson's to mark the brand's 10th anniversary. In the novel "Pattern Recognition" by world-renowned novelist William Gibson, the protagonist wears a "Buzz Rickson's Black MA-1" inscribed on his coat. The actual Buzz Rickson's Black MA-1 was born from the novel. Officially adopted by the U.S. Air Force in the 1950s, the MA-1's official color is sage green. However, this authentic black MA-1, crafted with military-grade parts and materials based on military specifications, is unheard of. This resulted in a buzz among authentic-looking customers. Even when each material is specified as black, each dyes differently. When these materials are combined into a single jacket, subtle color variations become apparent, highlighting the diverse materials used in a flight jacket.
※ITEM DATE※
Model number BR12394・Made in JAPAM ・Silhouette [Slim←1 2 3 4 5→Thick] ・Material: Outer: 36oz wool, Lining: rayon satin
The model is 173cm tall and weighs 64kg and is wearing size 38 (M).
Because it is a tight fit, if you wear size 38 (M), you can only wear a thin long-sleeved T-shirt or shirt underneath.
If you want to wear a thick hoodie or something similar underneath, you will need to wear size 40 (L).
Size/Width/Shoulder Width/Length/Hem Width/Sleeve Length
38(M)/52cm/47cm/75cm/54cm/52cm
40(L)/55cm/49cm/77cm/57cm/64cm
42(XL)/58cm/51cm/79cm/60cm/66cm
44(XL)/62cm/53cm/81cm/63cm/68cm
*The above values are measured when the item is laid flat after one wash.
We lay it on the floor, remove any wrinkles, and measure the fabric flat.
The size numbers will vary by a few centimeters depending on the individual product, the measurement method, and the amount of force used.
The size chart is therefore only a guide and may differ from the actual numbers.
*The product photos are taken with a digital camera.
Please note that color may differ slightly from the actual product due to the LCD screen, etc.
*Click here for detailed size measurement methods.
