[BUZZ RICKSON'S "BR11554" PEA-COAT “NAVAL CLOTHING FACTORY”]
It is said that the prototype for the coat commonly known as the "pea coat" existed as early as the 18th century.
The name is derived from the Dutch word "Piijekker"—"Pii" referring to a coarse woolen fabric and "jekker" to a jacket.
While various European militaries adopted pea-style coats, the specific model featured here is based on the version adopted by the U.S. Navy for enlisted personnel in the 1910s.
Key characteristics of the 1910s pea coat include the use of thick, high-density Melton wool and anchor buttons engraved with 13 stars representing the U.S. national emblem.
These 13 stars commemorate the original 13 states that existed when the United States gained independence in 1777.
Although the exact date the U.S. Navy adopted the pea coat is unknown, an overcoat for enlisted personnel was already listed in the uniform regulations during World War I.
The large collar was designed so that it could be turned up to cover the face and provide effective protection against strong winds while working at sea.
Additionally, the vertical slit pockets serve as hand-warmers to keep cold hands warm.
From the 1930s onwards, production efficiency and costs were re-evaluated; the fabric was made lighter, and the 13-star buttons were eventually discontinued.
The outer shell of this garment is made from 36-ounce high-density Melton wool, offering excellent protection against the cold.
This heavy, high-density wool provides superior insulation and wind resistance, making it an ideal choice for mid-winter outerwear.
The lining uses smooth rayon satin, ensuring the coat feels light and soft to wear despite its substantial, heavy-duty appearance. While the materials and construction stay true to vintage styles, the silhouette—including the body length and width—has been refined for a sleek, modern look.
Although the pea coat has military origins, it is now a quintessential autumn/winter outerwear staple that has firmly established itself as a go-to choice for city wear.
Its appeal lies in the exquisite balance between rugged, masculine military style and the refined elegance of high-quality fabric and tailoring.
※ITEM DATE※
Model number BR11554・Made in JAPAM ・Silhouette [Slim←1 2 3 4 5→Thick] ・Material: Outer fabric: 36oz Wool Melton (90% wool, 10% nylon) / Lining: Rayon satin (57% cotton, 43% rayon)
The model is 173cm tall and weighs 64kg and is wearing size 38 (M).
Size/Width/Shoulder Width/Length/Hem Width/Sleeve Length
38(M)/53cm/47cm/77cm/53cm/63cm
40(L)/55cm/48cm/79cm/55cm/65cm
42(XL)/58cm/49cm/82cm/58cm/67cm
44(XL)/61cm/51cm/85cm/61cm/69cm
46(XXL)/63cm/52cm/87cm/63cm/71cm
*The above values are measured when the item is laid flat after one wash.
We lay it on the floor, remove any wrinkles, and measure the fabric flat.
The size numbers will vary by a few centimeters depending on the individual product, the measurement method, and the amount of force used.
The size chart is therefore only a guide and may differ from the actual numbers.
*The product photos are taken with a digital camera.
Please note that color may differ slightly from the actual product due to the LCD screen, etc.
*Click here for detailed size measurement methods.
