[BUZZ RICKSON'S "BR15919" COAT, MAN'S COMBAT TROPICAL HAND EMBROIDERY]
This is a Buzz Rickson's fatigue jacket.
Commonly known as the "Jungle Fatigue" jacket—and officially designated the "Tropical Combat Uniform"—this garment was adopted and issued as field clothing for tropical environments during the Vietnam War in the early 1960s.
Although classified as a jacket, it is designed to be worn much like a shirt; it functions effectively as a lightweight outer layer or as an under-layer beneath a coat.
The material used is lightweight, quick-drying cotton poplin, selected specifically for tropical climates.
The design is an evolution of the parachute coat from World War II. These jackets are generally categorized into three types—early, mid, and late models—with the defining characteristic of the early model (the "First Model") being the exposed buttons on the pocket flaps.
This is a reproduction of that early model, featuring shoulder epaulets, exposed pocket buttons, and waist-adjustment tabs.
Designed for hot, humid environments, it utilizes cotton poplin—a relatively lightweight fabric often used for shirts, yet one that is densely woven, supple, and durable.
It also offers excellent moisture absorption and quick-drying properties.
Another distinctive feature is the angled chest pocket, which includes a pen slot and is positioned for easy access.
Sewn onto the jacket is a "joke patch" reflecting the anti-war sentiment that spread among U.S. troops during the conflict, alongside hand-embroidered details that express the soldiers' own sense of frustration and resignation regarding the war.
From our perspective, this garment is not merely a tribute to the military uniform itself; rather, it recreates the image of a soldier's personal emotions erupting over the "uniform provided by the state."
It is a jacket born from the atmosphere of anti-war and war-weary sentiment that permeated the U.S. military as the Vietnam War dragged on. While it bears a clear anti-war message like "MAKE LOVE NOT WAR," it also features a brand of dark, soldier-style humor—"PEACE THE OLD FASHIONED WAY" (creating peace by bombing with B-52s)—that could be interpreted as the exact opposite.
The famous phrase "Fighter by day / Lover by night / Drunkard by choice / Army by mistake" feels less like a statement of political anti-war ideology and more like an expression of soldier culture—a way of laughing at oneself for "ending up in a place like this."
One might be tempted to simply lump this together with other "anti-war jackets," but I felt it was something far more human than that label implies.
What this jacket conveys may be the "honest feelings of a soldier" rather than an "ideology."
"I hate war. But I’m a soldier. I like girls. I want to drink. Joining the army was a mistake. MAKE LOVE NOT WAR." Yet, at the same time, they joke about creating "old-fashioned peace" with B-52s.
They even poke fun at the very war they are fighting in, calling it the "SOUTH EAST ASIA WAR GAMES."
It doesn't neatly align with a single ideology; that lack of neatness is precisely what makes this jacket feel so real.
There is no simple way to explain the emotions of someone who has actually been on the battlefield.
There is fear. Resignation. Perhaps even pride. There is drinking and joking. There is the longing to go home. I feel like all of those things are mixed together in this jacket.
Taking all of that into account, the phrase "a sense of helpless frustration"—used by the manufacturer to describe it—captures the essence of this jacket perfectly.
Furthermore, the fact that we can also appreciate such a jacket as a cool fashion item feels, in many ways, deeply human—giving the jacket a rich, complex character.
ITEM DATE
Part Number: BR15919- Quality: 100% Cotton - Made in Japan
Silhouette [Thin←1 2 3 4 5→] Thicker
Model information
Height 173cm, weight 64kg, wearing size 38 (M).
Size/Chest/Shoulder/Length/Hem/Sleeve/
38(M)/54cm/46cm/68cm/54cm/60cm
40(L)/57cm/48cm/71cm/57cm/62cm
42(XL)/60cm/50cm/74cm/60cm/64cm
44(XXL)/62cm/52cm/76cm/62cm/66cm
*The above values are measured when the item is laid flat after one wash.
We lay it on the floor, remove any wrinkles, and measure the fabric flat.
The size numbers will vary by a few centimeters depending on the individual product, the measurement method, and the amount of force used.
The size chart is therefore only a guide and may differ from the actual numbers.
*The product photos are taken with a digital camera.
Please note that color may differ slightly from the actual product due to the LCD screen, etc.
*Click here for detailed size measurement methods.
