[JELADO "JP94301E" "301EXX" Age of Longing Black tag 301EXX]
denim
This time's last resort (black tag) is finished in denim with a wilder and stronger vintage feel.
Produced the early 47 models, which are popular among the successive XX models.
It is a special denim made with a new approach from denim that dismantled, analyzed and reproduced XX.
With an emphasis on producing a color that is closer to vintage, this time we created it to reproduce the texture and color of denim that was woven under conditions where the spinning technology was less developed and the quality of the yarn was worse than it is now. of his last resort black tag.
We used the same raw cotton as the warp and weft white tag (warp EMOT weft California Pima) to create the yarn, but the warp yarn is crafted so that the neps of the yarn can fly easily to make it more uneven.
This is because the vertical discoloration can run for a long time by applying unevenness strongly.
Looking at the vintage we targeted, the dullness of the weft color stands out, and the color of the cotton at that time looked more like a yellowish unbleached than white. The commitment to dyeing and weaving the fabric after making it is wonderful.
Also, by changing to a dyeing factory different from the white tag, it has a completely different color.
Depending on the dyeing factory, the height of the rope and the process of dyeing are different, so the appearance of the color also changes.
And due to the difference in this process, the weight of the fabric has also changed, with the white tag being 14oz and the black tag being 15oz.
In addition, by intentionally dyeing the denim deeply eight times, the denim has a deeper, deeper bluish tint.
It has a wilder look and the touch of the fabric, but after two days of wearing it, the soft comfort of a white tag comes to the front, transforming it into a smooth and stress-free fit.
silhouette
We sampled from the actual size 32 inches owned by JELADO, a so-called golden size vintage individual, and reproduced the fit at that time.
Although it has a thick silhouette, it is naturally tapered, giving it a clean impression.
detail
The leather patch, single-sided tab, long side stitches, and thick belt loops similar to those used in the Great Belt Loop War are all reproduced to make it possible to determine the age.
The one I chose as a sample this time has a lot of individual quirks, such as the coin pocket sewn quite low, and the back pocket has an extra seam allowance, so I reproduced that as well.
The inseam is sewn in three strokes for a firm fit.
By staggering the stitching of the back yoke and shifting the length of the waistband on the front and back, we sewed while considering the intention of the time, such as the idea of not applying tension as much as possible.
The button uses an original button made of iron with plating.
The single-sided rayon tab, original copper rivets, and leather patch are made of horse leather.
*MODEL DATE*
・Part number: JP94301E ・100% cotton ・Made in Japan ・Details: leather patch, copper rivets, button fly, cotton thread sewing, selvedge, hidden rivets
silhouette
・Rise [shallow ← 1 2 3 4 5 → deep]
・Thighs [thin ← 1 2 3 4 5 → thick]
・Hem width [thin ← 1 2 3 4 5 → thick]
*DENIM DATE*
oz = 15oz discoloration = vintage
・Dyed [Light ← 1 2 3 → Dark]
・Comfortable to wear [softer ← 1 2 3 → harder]
Discerning Japanese selvedge denim woven using an old-fashioned power loom
You can enjoy the vertical fading where the dots become a line, and the beautiful fading like a vintage.
We disassembled the dead stock fabric in the early 1947s and selected rice cotton from cotton.
We take a scientific approach to the thickness of the thread, the length of the fiber length, the number of twists, etc.
I use cloth for denim of 15 ounces that I reproduced
Original leather patch and buttons
Finely reproduces the details of the original owned by JELADO
A silhouette that reproduces the early vintage of the 47 model
It has a thick, wide silhouette.
*Model is 173cm, 64kg and wearing 31inc.
Size/waist/front rise/back rise/inseam/thigh/hem width
28inc/72cm/28cm/38cm/85cm/27cm/20cm
29inc/74cm/28cm/38,5cm/85cm/27,5cm/20cm
30inc/76cm/28,5cm/39cm/85cm/28cm/20,5cm
31inc/78cm/28,5cm/39,5cm/85cm/29cm/20,5cm
32inc/80cm/29cm/40cm/85cm/30cm/21cm
33inc/82cm/29cm/40,5cm/89cm/31cm/21cm
34inc/84cm/29,5cm/41cm/89cm/32cm/21,5cm
36inc/88cm/30cm/42cm/89cm/33cm/21,5cm
38inc/92cm/30,5cm/42,5cm/89cm/34cm/22cm
49inc/96cm/31cm/43cm/89cm/35cm/22,5cm
* The above is a one-wash, flat measurement value.
* If you would like raw denim, please write "Raw denim desired" in the remarks column.
* The numbers in the size chart above are the numbers measured for one item in stock.
Please note that there may be a deviation of about 1 to 2 cm for each point.
* Product photos are taken with a digital camera. Please note that the color appearance may differ slightly from the actual product due to the liquid crystal etc.